The BaoziInn group are known for bringing quality, colourful dim sum to London. New Business checks out its bustling but diminutive new location on Little Newport Street. Review by Ian Westcott
Taking over the old site of Bawei on Chinatown, the intimate dining space downstairs has an energetic feel to it. Serving BaoziInn's famed range of steamed buns, dumpings and wontons to passers-by, it feels like an excellent lunch spot. Authentic Taiwanese main courses come in at only £11.50 and flew out of the kitchen expediently as we sat at the street facing window booth, people watching.
The menu is jam packed with snack style Taiwanese street food. There is a huge variety, ranging from the more typical such as crispy duck spring rolls, to the intriguing braised tofu, and rich and indulgent Taiwanese street sausage. Add to this the Taiwanese Popcorn chicken, wonton soup and shredded chicken in chef's special chilli oil, the street food menu offers exciting variety, with no dish exceeding £6.90.
As far as mains go, the bento style servings offer a lot for your money. My companion and I opted for both the yibin ran mian and the chongqing xiao mian. The former being a delicate but punchy blend of flavours, with a serious chilli oil kick, underpinned by a rich peanut and sesame flavour. The latter, made up of shredded pig's trotter accompanying the noodles is a distinctive dish from its namesake city, with native style chilli oil creating the basis for its "mouth numbing" reputation. About half-way through consumption I did experience a significant numbing of the tongue, but it did little to halt me working my way to the bottom of what was a pretty deep bowl.
Aesthetically, BaoziInn Chinatown II is "no frills". It's all about the food. It feels authentic, and it fits in to its surroundings so perfectly that it feels like it has been there for ever. Upon my visit I did notice the disparity between the life and vibrancy of its ground floor atmosphere and its significantly quieter upstairs dining space. Someone gazing in the window could find themselves disappointed if moved to the first floor on account of the limited seating space, perhaps feeling a little cut off.
BaoziInn Chinatown II [1] is appealing for its charming street food, its excellent value for taste, colour, and quality of Taiwanese cooking.
China town London - 8
little Newport Street, WC2H 7JJ
Tel 020 7494 3605
www.baoziinn.com [2]