Ormer Mayfair occupies the space previously filled by ‘The Grill at Flemings', a restaurant that had arguably seen better days, and refreshed it with a passion that serves as an excellent proxy to the original Ormer located in St Helier in Jersey.
Rankin has created a menu marrying the best of British and Jersey produce, with an emphasis on sustainability and seasonal ingredients, and showcases it in a beautiful art deco inspired interior that looks straight out of Baz Luhrmann's Great Gatsby remake.
This 1920's ambience is also prevalent in Manetta's bar, an intimate lounge bar adjacent to the main restaurant, that serves a bold line-up of signature cocktails. Head bartender Marco Matesi was on hand with recommendations, having designed the menu himself. "I'm going to recommend an Endless Night". Served in a tumbler, it is a smooth blend of Remy Martin 1738, apricot liqueur, Malbec and cherry bitters.
Ormer Mayfair is unapologetically fine dining amidst more casual trends of dialling down, hitting all of the beats of high end, minus the white table cloths, and it's all the better for it. It does come at fine dining prices, and you won't dine here on a tight budget. Main courses range from £29-£35, however a three-course lunch menu is on offer for £29.50, an absolute bargain. Nyetimber was recommended to us as part of a wider promotion of English sparkling wines by the staff. Following shortly came the teasing amuse bouche of lobster brioche. The size of a sushi roll and packed with fresh Jersey lobster, excellent motivation to return and go for the full-sized experience on the lunch menu.
I can rarely pass up a crab starter, so I opted for the Jersey crab. Like the lobster, the portion of crab meat was generous, complimented by the sweet contrast of Asian pear and vanilla dressing. A little satisfying crunch was added by the crumbled peanut brittle.
Secreto of Iberico pork was suggested, served on two plates. The Secreto shoulder cuts were marbled, juicy and perfectly cooked, with the sweet pear cutting through the intense flavours of the pork, calamari and chorizo. My partner opted for the Scottish venison. Beautifully tender, full of flavour and accompanied with quinoa, parsnip, ginger and a chocolate tortellini. Rankin's use of contrast throughout both mains was a big triumph, and though the generous portions left us feeling satisfied, they conversely motivated us to attack the desert menu.
Shaun Rankin featured on BBC Two's Great British Menu show, going on to win with his treacle tart with Jersey clotted cream and raspberry ripple coulis, so I kept it simple and went with this winner. It was rich and sticky as it should be without being too weighty. Well executed comfort food.
Over the course of the evening, staff were attentive but allowed us plenty of breathing space to relax. Restaurant manager Agnieszka Josko and her team clearly love the challenges of bringing Ormer to London. The warmth of the service received is something that can be found wanting in many top end restaurants and combined with a diverse menu makes a visit to Ormer Mayfair an unforgettable experience.
