If the name is familiar, Cinnamon Kitchen opened on the 10th anniversary of its namesake in Devonshire Square, and with the flagship and more formal Cinnamon Club in Westminster, Vivek Singh has plenty of experience in bringing Londoners exciting contemporary Indian flavours.

The décor of the restaurant works perfectly with its location. Built within the railway arches on the west side of the power station, the faint rumble of passing trains adds an ambience as you sit in the dining room area, where jade green booth-like seating is set off against the exposed brick of the arches and the touches of brass. The rear of the dining space is confidently set around an open plan kitchen, featuring a genuine Tandoor oven that reaches up to 450 degrees. The railway theme seems to fit perfectly with the bar snack menu, that we were informed Vivek had based upon the food served on the train journey from Mumbai to Jaipur.

Starting off with the cocktails, taken from a list created by renowned mixologist Tony Conigliaro, my colleague and I opted for a coconut kir and a Mango Sour respectively. The coconut kir was a refreshing aperitif, derived from the classic kir royale. Whilst it does contain coconut liqueur and toasted coconut, it is restrained enough not to overpower the champagne. The mango sour was a rum lover's treat, with mango triple sec, Havana rum and lime. I confess I am not a huge fan of mango (unless it's accompanying fresh crab), but it was subtle.

Browsing the appetisers menu, there is a real diversity to the ingredients. Dishes like banana leaf wrapped sea bass, malabar mussel and date pickle, char-grilled achari cauliflower with hot garlic chutney tempted you to order to excess.

The selection process was a difficult one, but with some good advice from our server, we opted for pink aubergine with sesame, tamarind and peanut crumble first. A great sweet and savoury mix with the peanut crumble adding some texture to the aubergine flesh. We opted for the Bombay Street food, a small plate we shared, consisting of a vada pao, a fried potato cake in a brioche-like bun, chilli coated paneer, which was not as hot or spicy as you might assume, given the chilli presence, and the vegetable based tapioca cake. It was Vivek's own take on what you could find sold on the trains in India. A huge highlight was the lobster soup with cognac. It is a must try. Rich, warming with meaty chunks of lobster and prawn, with a little bit of theatre in its tableside prep. The cognac cuts right through it.

Clove smoked lamb rump with fennel and nutmeg sauce was beautifully pink in the middle with intense flavour. The king prawns in bengali turmeric were huge and meaty. Every plate that landed on our table was a colourful spectacle.

To finish we chose ‘The Himalayan Queen' from the dessert menu, described as a trio of pistachio kulfi, mango and thandai ice cream covered with spiced meringue, flamed with rum. It visually resembled a baked Alaska with subtle layers of colour from the ice-cream. Indulgent, creamy and boozy, it was a perfect way to finish an adventurous evening's dining.

The Battersea development will only go from strength to strength, and Vivek Singh's Cinnamon Kitchen deserves its place in the centre of the areas exciting future.

Cinnamon Kitchen Battersea
4 Arches Lane
London SW11 8AB
Tel 0203 955 5480
www.cinnamon-kitchen.com